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Method

1. Preheat the oven to 190C/170C Fan/Gas 5 and line two 22cm/8½in sandwich tins with baking paper.

2. Pulse the hazelnuts in a food processor until they have the texture of ground almonds. Tip into a small bowl, add the flour and mix well.

3. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a microwave or small saucepan over a medium heat.

4. Whisk the eggs and sugar together in a large bowl for several minutes using an electric whisk until the volume has tripled and is very pale and mousse-like. Stir in the flour, ground hazelnuts and melted butter, being careful not to over mix. Divide evenly between the two tins and bake for 20–30 minutes, or until lightly coloured and springy to touch. Turn out onto a cooling rack and peel off the baking paper.

5. To make the filling, place the pears in a saucepan with the sugar and lemon. Heat gently until the sugar has dissolved, then turn up the heat and simmer for 2–3 minutes, or until the pears are soft but retain their shape. Stir in the eau de vie and strain the syrup into a heatproof bowl. Set the pears aside to cool and reserve the syrup.

6. Whisk together the ricotta and icing sugar until smooth. Add the double cream and continue to whisk until the mixture is firm. Stir in a tablespoon of the pear syrup. Spoon a quarter of the cream mixture into a separate container and refrigerate for later. Stir the cooled pears into the remaining cream.

7. To assemble, brush one cake generously with pear syrup, pile the filling on top as evenly as possible and place the other cake on top. Tidy up the sides, making sure the cakes and filling are straight and even. Brush the top with more syrup, wrap loosely in cling film and freeze for 2 hours (see tip).

8. To make the praline topping, if using, line a baking tray and small heatproof dish with greaseproof paper. Put the sugar in a saucepan and place over a medium–high heat, swirling every so often. When it has dissolved and is light golden-brown, stir in the hazelnuts. Remove some of the hazelnuts individually and place on the lined tray to cool. Pour the remaining mixture into the small dish and set aside. When hard, break up the block and blend into a crumb in a food processor.

9. To decorate, smooth a thin layer of the reserved refrigerated filling over the sides and top, then sprinkle over the ground hazelnut praline and the coated whole hazelnuts. Refrigerate until ready to eat.

10. To make the chocolate sauce, if using, put the cream, butter and chocolate in a small saucepan with a pinch of salt. Melt gently, then whisk until smooth. Stir in the liqueur, if using, and serve immediately with the cake or reheat gently before serving.