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by James Martin

James Martin's easy Goan lamb curry is hot, sour and coconutty. Serve with an easy pilau rice.

Main course

Buyer's guide

Top-quality British mutton is now available in butchers, farm shops and mail-order outlets throughout the country. Far from second-rate, mutton has the potential to be future first-choice.

Mutton is greatly underrated in this country. The cuts are similar to lamb, but tend to be larger, darker in colour with a richer flavour (almost 'gamey'). Choose mutton of a rich brown colour; avoid any grey meat with yellowy fat. Mutton lacks the mildness and tenderness of lamb and tends to have more fat.

Preparation

This meat is especially good for pies and puddings, slow-cooked curries and spicy Middle Eastern dishes, braises and pot-roasts. Cooking with mutton brings a convenience that is often overlooked: a simple mutton casserole or tagine can be left in a low oven for a few hours. The flavour of the mutton mellows and sweetens during the gentle cooking and delivers an eating experience that is truly delicious.