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All pattern templates used in the garment industry have globally recognised markings that are found on commercial patterns. These help ensure the assembly of the garment and the placement and attachment of components is correct:

Each pattern is also labelled with its name and size. Patterns must be used and cut for accurate assembly and form part of the quality assurance (QA) procedures in a factory.

Transferring marks onto fabric

When using patterns or when producing garments as a one-off design, pattern markings need to be transferred onto the fabric. This can be done in a number of ways:

• tailor’s chalk - a chalk that leaves a temporary mark on the fabric and comes in a variety of colours so it can stand out on any colour of fabric
• vanishing markers - these look like felt-tip pens but the mark made can either be removed by water or disappears over time as it is exposed to the air
• tailor’s tacks - these are looped stitches that are removed once the garment has been machine stitched
• hot notcher - used in industry when a large quantity of garments are made, it produces small holes by burning through the plies of fabric and is used to identify where fastenings or components, such as pockets, need to be sewn

Lay planning

Lay planning is a process that positions pattern templates onto fabric in the most economical way. This prevents excess wastage of fabric and as such ensures the garment is as cheap as it can be to make. In the garment industry, computer aided design (CAD) programs are used to facilitate this process.

Marker

A marker is a paper printout of the lay plan. It is positioned on top of the fabric prior to cutting and used as a guide to ensure the accuracy of each pattern piece cut.