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3 Oct 2014

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Unsexy Food

Anne Enright finds food a turn off ...

If you look at the telly, everything is supposed to be sexy, these days. Big cars, ice cream, really classy venetian blinds, plastic bottles of spring water - all in slow motion with smoochy music and slow smiles - they are all so incredibly sexy that we just couldn’t say how sexy they are - we just have to rush out and buy them.

But eating --- that has always been sensual, hasn’t it? Food as love’s ally, love’s other self. All that licking, nibbling sucking biting I won’t go on you get the general picture.

Well yes, but not the way I eat, I’m afraid. And not the way most men eat either. Most men trough down. Did you know that the jaw muscles are the strongest in the human body? They can exert a pressure of 200lbs per square inch. The face is a remarkable eating machine. So never mind the candlelight, the music, the slither of the oyster, the champagne sparkle fading on your tongue - love means sitting across from that mechanism for the rest of your life. Tongue teeth jaw throat. Once a day if you’re lucky and three times a day on your holidays.

I’d say more people fall out of love over a meal, than into it. It’s hard to see the love shining in his eyes when there is grease shining on his chin. And nothing is more rivetting.

You know of course it’s all a con. And one that disappears with marriage. I know a woman whose husband can not bear to see her eat a lobster. Pick, strip, crack, gnaw and demolish a lobster. Which she does very delicately, and beautifully, and above all, thoroughly.

Perhaps, in these oversexualised days, we need all the turn-offs we can get. On the telly, in the magazines, everything is sexy. Or at least charming. When of course it is not. We are not. We are awkward and half-mad and dull and funny and most of the time we are thinking about nothing at all, or nothing much. Or ‘that’s interesting’.

And love has an ordinary poetry that you couldn’t use in an ad, because it wouldn’t sell anything. There is something about love that has nothing to do with appetite, that is neither ugly, nor pretty. Which is why we close our eyes, perhaps, when we make love and open them to eat.

Has food played a role in the making or breaking of an important relationship in your life?
What did you eat and why was it so significant?
What do you and your family feel about mealtimes, or eating out together?

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