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Fashion Stories: Body Armour

Why did a modernist poet seek a patent for a 'corselet' for post-menopausal ladies in 1941? How does this fit with ideas about the body and the early 20th-century 'New Woman'?

"My lady's corselet" was developed by a pioneer of free verse on the frontlines of feminism, the poet Mina Loy. Celebrated in the 1910s as the quintessential New Woman, her love of freedom was shadowed by a darker quest to perfect the female body, as her unusual designs for a figure-correcting corset show. Sophie Oliver asks how she fits into a history of body-correcting garments and cosmetic surgery, feminism and fashion. Working on both sides of the Atlantic writing poetry and designing bonkers body-altering garments: like a bracelet for office workers with a built-in ink blotter, or her β€˜corselet’ to correct curvature of the spine in women - in the end Mina Loy couldn’t stop time, and her late-life poetry is full of old clothes and outcast people from the Bowery, as she reckons with – and celebrates – the fact that she has become unfashionable.

Producer: Torquil MacLeod

Sophie Oliver teaches English Literature at the University of Liverpool and is a New Generation Thinker on the scheme run by ΒιΆΉΤΌΕΔ Radio 3 and the Arts and Humanities Research Council which turns academic research into radio programmes. You can find a collection of essays, discussions and features with New Generation Thinkers on the Free Thinking programme website under the playlist Ten Years of New Generation Thinkers /programmes/p08zhs35

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13 minutes

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