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Andrew Hosken in Tirana considers the past fears, present concerns and future aspirations of Albania - and meets a man who once led its feared security state. Many relics of its isolated, Communist era under dictator Enver Hoxha have now been turned into tourist attractions, and the country aspires to join the EU - but past habits of surveillance and mistrust still cast long shadows, and there are battles ahead to reform its power structure.

(Photo: Opposition protesters destroy a bunker installed as an artwork during a rally demanding the resignation of the government, in Tirana, 8 December, 2015. Credit: Gent Shkullaku/AFP/Getty Images)