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The Ark of Taste: Brazilian Canastra Cheese

In the micro-climate of Serra Canastra, a region of South East Brazil, Gilheym Mephahera works as a farmer and cheesemaker. The unpasteurised milk makes a buttery and slightly acidic cheese from cows that have been farmed in this region for over 300 years. But, over the years, fewer children have followed their parents into farming in favour of more lucrative job prospects in urban areas. On top of that, of the 30,000 small-scale cheesemakers in Brazil, only 245 are deemed to be legal because their businesses do not meet the ultra-hygienic standards designed for large-scale industry. But things are changing. The younger generation are beginning to show a renewed interest in farming and, thanks to winning an international award, Gilheym’s once clandestine business has now been granted legal status, which he hopes will inspire this new generation of cheesemakers.

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4 minutes