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Method

1. Put the cold stock and haddock in a pan, and bring to a simmer. Leave to simmer for 3 minutes, then lift the fish out of the pan carefully using a slotted spoon and break into flakes using a fork. Leave the stock gently simmering at the back of the stove.

2. Put the olive oil, 20g/¾oz butter, onion, parsley stalks and a pinch of salt in a large, deep saucepan or flameproof casserole. Cook over a medium-low heat until the onion is soft and starting to turn translucent. Add the rice and stir so every grain is coated with the oil and butter.

3. Add the wine and let it evaporate. Make a note of the time, and start adding the vegetable stock one ladle at a time, stirring the rice attentively and vigorously until all the liquid is absorbed, before adding the next ladleful. Continue adding the stock ladle by ladle, adding the flaked haddock after 16 minutes, working on the principle the cooking time will be 17–20 minutes depending on the rice. Keep tasting. It is ready when the rice is plump and firm but without any chalky bite. The risotto should be soft, fluid and creamy.

4. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the remaining butter, parsley leaves and lemon zest, then serve.