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A sad and unplanned trip to lower altitudes

• Guest
• 19 Sep 06, 05:00 AM

Would sir like a massage as well?

I have just had a beard trim in the small town of Zhangmu (2371m) on the Tibetan/Nepalese border by an attractive Tibetan woman, and this was the somewhat ambiguous offer that she has made to me.

36 hours ago we were at Cho Oyu Base Camp (5600m) packing for a further acclimatisation climb, when a call came over the VHF radio saying a climber from another group had collapsed and could we help. Jon Morgan, Chamonix guide, anaesthetist and old climbing friend and I set off at speed to help. Climbing over the moraine and glacier to 5900m (the same height as the summit of Kilimanjiro) was hard work but we managed it in just under half the guidebook time. The climber appeared to have had a stroke. After we had stabilised him with oxygen, intravenous steroids and aspirin the Sherpas organised a stretcher evacuation to Base Camp. The speed and efficiency with which they work was a sight to behold, almost like a steam train as they took it in turns to lift and lower the casualty over the treacherous terrain.

A sad and unplanned trip to lower altitudes

Would sir like a massage as well?
I have just had a beard trim in the small town of Zhangmu (2371m) on the Tibetan/Nepalese border by an attractive Tibetan woman, and this was the somewhat ambiguous offer that she has made to me.

36 hours ago we were at Cho Oyu Base Camp (5600m) packing for a further acclimatisation climb, when a call came over the VHF radio saying a climber from another group had collapsed and could we help. Jon Morgan, Chamonix guide, anaesthetist and old climbing friend and I set off at speed to help. Climbing over the moraine and glacier to 5900m (the same height as the summit of Kilimanjiro) was hard work but we managed it in just under half the guidebook time. The climber appeared to have had a stroke. After we had stabilised him with oxygen, intravenous steroids and aspirin the Sherpas organised a stretcher evacuation to Base Camp. The speed and efficiency with which they work was a sight to behold, almost like a steam train as they took it in turns to lift and lower the casualty over the treacherous terrain.

At Base Camp, fellow Xtreme Everest members had already set up a High Dependency Unit in the DRASH science tent. Using a portable power Titan SonoSite doppler machine, which we had with us for the medical experiments, it was possible to assess the main arteries in the brain. Although the middle cerebral artery was normal on the right side, there was minimal flow on the left. Using this ultra-early non-invasive technique (not available in most UK stroke units) it was possible to demonstrate that the blocked artery was almost certainly the cause of the stroke. Under the strict supervision of Sister Kay Mitchell the doctors became nurses and Denny L, Mark W, Mac, Mike G and Jon M took turns in looking after the patient overnight.

The next morning with twelve Tibetan porters, I set off with the patient to the roadhead. It took six hours across difficult terrain to rendezvous with the jeep. From there it was a further five hours to the Tibetan/Nepalese border. Unfortunately the border crossing was closed for the night. One look at the local hospital and it was clear that with dirty sharps everywhere I would need to set up an ΅®acute stroke unit΅― in one of the local hotels. Intravenous fluids were purchased at an exorbitant price, and climbing oxygen normally reserved for summit bids on 8000m peaks maintained adequate oxygen saturations. A satisfactory urine output was achieved via the indwelling catheter. The following morning a helicopter transfer to the Italian hospital in Kathmandu was arranged.

Since I left the UK 3 weeks I have lost 7 kg in weight, and this is an almost universal phenomenon at altitude. Whilst I wait for the jeep back to Base Camp, I am eating for all I am worth in an attempt to regain some of my weight in preparation for the days ahead as I try to catch the others up who have started climbing already.

Chris Imray